Domaine de Ju Ventoux 2016
First things first: my husband and I are rabid Tour de France fans, and that race is COMING RIGHT UP. Cannot wait. I
started following the race in about 7th grade, when I started taking
French at school after having heard a lot of French at home from my
multi-lingual parents. One of the highlights of the Tour de France is Mont
Ventoux, or the Giant of Provence. Mont Ventoux (literally: Windy Mountain,
which is a bit of an understatement) is a massive, stand-alone mountain smack
in the middle of Provence that is the genesis point for the Mistral wind, which
is freeeeeezing and can reach 200 mph (!). I honestly love that (a) the French
name their winds and (b) that the Mistral has such a lovely name for being the meteorological
equivalent of one of the seven horses of the apocalypse. The Tour doesn’t go to
Mont Ventoux every year because, honestly, it’s living hell for the cyclists
and if something is going to go wrong, it will happen on the Giant of Provence
(witness Richie Porte slamming into the back of a press motorcycle AND Chris
Froome RUNNING up the mountain after demolishing his bike in a crash and being
unable to get a replacement because of the crush of spectators, all in the
space of 30 minutes in 2016). Regarding the Tour de France, last summer, we visited Paris for our 25th anniversary. I hadn't been to Paris since I was a student there in the (very) early 1990s (like, 1990 - 1991), and I was very much looking forward to showing the city to my husband and our two teenage children because doesn't everyone take their teenagers with them on their 25th wedding anniversary trip? Long story... At any rate, among many, many highlights of the trip for my husband was being able to sit on the overlook at the Tuileries and see Norwegian Corner and then walk the Champs Elysees and see the craziness that is the Place Charles de Gaulle (the huge roundabout circling the Arc de Triomphe that is home to the final criterion of the Tour de France in July but is home to traffic lunacy every other day of the year) as well as EXACTLY HOW NARROW the gutter is on each side of the Champs Elysees, which is where the cyclists try to ride on the criterion just to avoid the tooth-shattering pave, or cobblestones. We did a cycling tour on pave the first day we were there. I can attest to the cobblestones' bone-crushing abilities.
Needless to say, after reading about vineyards that somehow
cling onto the lower reaches of Mont Ventoux, I decided I had to try some and
promptly ordered a bottle from Laithwaite’s. And then I promptly received
another bottle in my regular shipment, so I ended up with two bottles of this
Mistral-tempered bomb of a Grenache blend. This bright red wine is a blend of
50% Syrah, 30% Grenache, and 20% Carignan, which is a somewhat run-of-the-mill
grape typically used for blending following its days as the primary component
in the European Wine Lake. Domaine de Ju is a super dry, very alcoholic (15%!!!!)
wine brought to us by the good people behind Domaine du Prince de Courthezon
just across the way in the Rhone in the Chateauneuf-de-Pape designation, so the
winemaker definitely knows what he’s doing. In the glass, Ju smells like a
barnyard in spring with a cool wind blowing over it. This is not a bad thing,
and in all honesty, I love a ripe, barnyard-y wine on the nose because I know I
am going to be rewarded with something complex, surprising, and dare I say it,
sexy. Domaine de Ju is a reasonably acidic wine that tastes a bit like the mountain it’s named after:
super-minerally, bright, crystalline, like a mix of tart and sweet cherries set
on granite rocks and then constantly sandblasted by the Mistral. This is due to
the terroir of the mountain itself and is also likely due to the “pudding
stones” in the region that are used to insulate the vines and keep them warm at
night and during that ridiculous Mistral wind. Ju kind of vanishes in the
middle of a good sip, but then follows that with some of that serious cherry
juice at the finish. There is a nice and welcome pepperiness to this wine as well.
The tannins are bright, but not overwhelmingly or annoyingly
so. I discovered to my peril that I should not drink this on an empty stomach
because holy cow, did I mention it’s very alcoholic? One glass in, I found
myself holding forth somewhat drunkenly on a variety of things while my husband
(who happened to be wearing his Mont Ventoux Running Club t-shirt, see above)
tried his best not to burst out laughing. The alcohol level in it did reward me
with a bit of a headache, but as with any alcoholic beverage, common sense
prevails: I had a glass of water as a chaser and so should you.
This wine is
excellent with Mediterranean fare of any kind and notably good with oily fish
such as tuna or salmon because the bright acid will cut through that, as well as with seafood. It would be divine with ratatouille
(the Provencal vegetable dish, not the movie, although possibly also with the
movie). It’s not really a wine-and-cheese wine, frankly, because I think it’s a
little too acidic for that, but it has the palate-cleansing gift of both cutting
through and standing up to strong flavors at the table. I think of this one as
a summer wine partially because it’s bright and partially because it
immediately reminds me of the Tour de France. Drink now, just not on an empty
stomach or you will find yourself modifying Elton John lyrics to “get a belly
full of wine” just like I did. Available to order from Laithwaite's Wine for $15.99, and the 2016
vintage is a gold-medal winner, while also holding two silver medals from other competitions.
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